Places
Sardinia, Italy and the Adventure Travel of a Lifetime
Italy’s western-most island is not often on tourists’ top-ten list when visiting the peninsula. In fact, some people confuse Sardinia with Corsica (a smaller island to the north belonging to France, home to two famous twin brothers). Yet like many islands in this part of the world, Sardinia boasts a culture and history that makes it unlike any mainland Italian region as well as any other European country. Australian-based Punto Tours runs a few unique bike trip itineraries on this beautiful island through many of the most historic and picturesque villages imaginable. Fall is a great time to travel to Italy and Punto Tours’ Sardinia departure is a storybook vacation. Today, Sardinia remains a true “emerald” of the Mediterranean Sea: full of luscious green mountains covered in thick forests, scored with plummeting rocky chasms, all of which make it a unique Mediterranean destination.
To give you an idea of Punto Tours’ magical week-long Sardinian escape, read on. The following villages are just a few highlights of this special departure:
Alghero
Hard to believe that Italy could have as much Catalan and Spanish influence as Alghero has, but this city was under Iberian rule starting in 1354. The original towers (built by the Genoa kings) were knocked down and the Spaniards built new looming defense structures. In 1720, when Sardinia was annexed by the Savoy Kingdom, Alghero remained primarily Catalan. Today you can still visit the seven towers still standing: among which the Torre de Sant Joan, the Torre del Portal and the Torre di Sulis have the richest history and the most Spanish influence.
Bosa
Set along the Temo river in western Sardinia, Bosa is picturesque with its XII century fortress overlooking the valley. Its 300 m perimeter walls enclose the sacrosanct N.S de s
os Regnos Altos: a XIV century cathedral with some of the best preserved frescos from the 1300s. Bosa celebrates its Festa di Santa Maria del Mare on the first Sunday of August, with a boat procession, carrying a statue of the Madonna out to sea.
Oristano
Sartiglia is a festival in Oristano that comes from medieval Spanish practices. During the Easter celebration, a rider on horseback adorns Castilian medieval dress, garnished with flowing silk scarves and a round black hat. An androgynous mask is placed over the rider’s eyes. The objective is to thread as many iron rings with his saber while he rides through the wild crowds in the center square. Even the name Sartiglia comes from the old castilian language meaning “ring” but also “fortune.” Thus the horseman with the most rings will win the contest and will also have the most prosperous year.
Gennargentu
This mountainous forest region contains the highest mountains on the island. Many of these geological formations are said to be some of the oldest in mainland Europe. With peaks high enough to accommodate skiers in the winter, this part of Sardinia is home to many endemic species of flora and fauna, and is a stunning contrast to the pearly beaches and azure waters so commonly associated with this island.
Guspini and Villamar
Guspini has been a mining village ever since the Phonetician conquest of Sardinia. Lead, silver and zinc were just a few of the minerals extracted from these dark caves which were the last residences for many ancient Roman citizens banished fromt he eternal city. In contrast, Villamar is decorated with stunning murals on many of the village walls. These paintings depict the Sardinian lifestyle in captivating images of daily life and the history of the islanders’ struggle.
Sant’Antíoco
This picturesque and historical city was first founded by the Phoenicians in the VIII century B.C, and is home to their tophet necropolis (burial ground for children). It served as a major municipal city for the Roman Empire and eventually became the isle of exile for Sardinia’s patron saint, Saint Antiochus, martyred in 110 A.D. in the mines of the island. These days the treasure of this minor island lies above ground in its sandy beaches and turquoise waters.
Adventure Travel in Honduras: A New Destination for an Active Vacation
The active travel industry has found its way to Central America, but not many operators work with Honduras: an up-and-coming destination for the adventure travel savvy. Honduras boasts 820 kilometers of coastline and is the second largest country in Central America, bordering Guatemala, Nicaragua and El Salvador. In the lowlands and along the coast, the temperatures remain subtropical, while higher inland the climate is more temperate. The northern coasts are far cooler than the southern rainforests. More prominent geographical features are the narrow plains along the north, and the famous La Mosquita lowland jungle in the northeast. The Bay Islands lay just north of the mainland with the three principal islands being Roatan, Utila and Guanaja. Honduras is home to a number of mountains, with the tallest being Cerro Las Minas – an extinct volcano – in the relatively savage western part of the country at 2849 meters. So with all of this inland jungle and coastal, there are a number of different activities to pursue for travelers on a shoestring looking for adventure:
Diving
Off the northern coast of Honduras and near the Bay Islands, are some of the most intriguing dive sites in the Caribbean, Roatán has many dive sites offering the most entrancing views through clear, celeste water. The El Águila Wreck is one of the most attractive underwater features. Purposely sunk in 1997 for wreck diving, Hurricane Mitch broke the vessel into three parks opening further entrances into the ship. Swarmed with groupers and moray eels, these waters are filled with barrel sponges, hammerhead sharks, strong currents, and adrenaline-filled adventure. Colorful reefs are home to barracuda, sargassum triggerfish and damselfish, adding to Honduras’s submarine treasures.
Rafting
Honduras’s richness lies as much on top of the water as underneath it. La Mostikia (better known as the Mosquito Coast) offers some excellent high class rapids. Along the Cangrejal River for example, are Class III and IV rapids, as well as some astonishing views of this Rio Plátano Bioshphere Reserve. This reserve is one of the few existing tropical rainforests in Central America, with extensive plant and wildlife. Along the Rio Sico, there is th
e possibility to spend a longer expedition of up to 4 days navigating the challenging waters. Views of crocodiles and iguanas are as abundant as hawks and falcons along these fertile banks.
Horseback
The small farming community of Cabañas has excellent horseback routes. Day-long rides through coffee fields and tiny farming communities offer a great opportunity to visit the traditional houses painted with colored mud. Ride underneath a waterfall or along the coast in La Ceiba. Roàtan also offers tantalizing equestrian itineraries alo
ng the western-end of the island through almond groves and under mango trees. When the senses are overloaded in the sunlight, try a nocturnal ride through the jungle. The sounds become more pronounced and the wind and moon play among the shadows. Plan your trip during the full moon and you won’t be disappointed.
Windsurfing
Along the Northern coast and in Roàtan, the winds and waters are perfect for windsurfing. The Roàtan is home to part of the world’s second largest reef protecting the harbor from disturbing surf. It is also home to some of the most diverse coral life. The area also offers opportunities to check out Kite-surfing. The winds form the north are gentle and both sports can be enjoyed from the beginner to the expert level depending on where you go within the bay.
In Vail with the Runs: Part Two – The Celebrities
About a week ago I started a small series on the names given to the ski runs in Vail. In that post, it was the
logging profession and the influence of the loggers on the mountain that gave the trails very interesting titles. In this post, I’ll continue talking about the front side (as well as some of the back) and the men and women immortalized on the mountain by having their names printed in blue and white.
The Front Side: The Celebrities
Of course, not everyone that comes to Vail is a celebrity. Many have earned this status just by living and working in the village, by being some of the pioneers who built hotels, gave donations to the town, or worked in the ski school. When you’re in Vail this weekend enjoying that powder, keep in mind all of the trails which are directly connected with people who have – in one way or another – changed the face of this well-known ski town over the past 60 years:
Widge’s Ridge: Alice “Widge” Ferguson an early back bowl devotee who always seemed to bring fresh snowfall with her every time she came out from Denver.
Ricky’s Ridge: Named for Ricky Andermatter from Zermatt, Switzerland, one of Vail’s first ski instructors.
Lindsey’s: The former International run. Renamed for a local ski champion – who is still winning gold – Lindsey Vonn.
Pepi’s Face: The last and steepest face of Lindsey’s. Pepi Gramshammmer raced with the Austrian national team and was recruited to come to Vail at its opening in 1962. He loved it so much, he decided to stay forever. He still operates and owns Gastof Gramshammer (a hotel and restaurant, with probably the best apple strudel in Colorado), Pepi’s Bar and Pepi’s Sports in the Village with his wife Sheika.
38: Named for the 38th President of the United States – Gerald Ford – who was an avid Vail skier.
Head First: Named after Howard Head, ski design innovator and owner of Head Skis. His residence was at the base of the International (now Lindsey’s) run in the village.
Minnie’s Mile: Named after Charles Minot Dole, “Minnie” founded the National Ski Patrol in 1938 and convinced the War Department to create the 10th Mountain Division of ski troopers during World War II. This division was fundamental in winning mountain outposts at altitude during the 1940s.
Pete’s Bowl: Named after Vail’s founder Pete Seibert. A former member of the 10th Mountain division, he finally fulfilled his dream of founding, building and operating a ski resort when Vail opened in 1962.
Earl’s Bowl: Earl Eaton initially discovered the area that would become Vail mountain in 1957 as he was prospecting for uranium. His discovery led to the development of North America’s largest single-mountain ski area. He showed his discovery to his good friend Pete Seibert, who put all the groundwork in place for a marvelous ski resort.
Milt’s Face: Assistant Ski Patrol leader in 1962, Milt Wiley was particularly fond of this run in the west side of Sun Up Bowl.
In Vail with the Runs: Part One – The Loggers
Have you ever asked yourself where a trail-name comes from? Sometimes the stories behind the naming of the ski-runs as well as their location on the mountain can give you reason to lift your head and say, “Huh, I didn’t know that,” or maybe share a tidbit or two with the folks next to you on the lift. In this series, I’ll take a look at the trail names in Vail, CO (since there are so many, and since I am here) and how they came to be. Starting with the Front Side, I’ll move to the runs in Game Creek Bowl, the Back Bowls and in Blue Sky Basin. All of them make interesting info to share the next time you’re at the Trivial Pursuit board, as well as something to think about while you’re carving up the slopes (if you’re thinking at all).
The Front Side: The Loggers
In the early years, the front side of Vail was cleared to make these first runs. The loggers who practically lived on the mountain (with none of the shelters and restaurants we see today) named most of the front side. From breakfast to britches, techniques to tools, they came up with some of the more unique titles. Here is a sampling of the front side, and its connection to the logging industry of the late 1960s:
Tin Pants: In the early years of Vail’s development, the canvas chaps worn by loggers were waterproofed with grease or pitch. In freezing weather, the pants were known to get stiff and the men called them “tin pants.” The loggers were able to slide back down to camp on them when work was completed for the day.
Boomer: A device that tightened the chains around logs which had been loaded for transport.
Choker Cutoff: “Chokers” were the cables wrapped around bundles of logs in order to haul them out of the mountain. The “cutoff” was simply where these cables were trimmed.
Flapjack: A really flat patch of the east side named after the loggers’ favorite breakfast.
Pickeroon: A long-handled, hooked pole (otherwise known as a “peavy”) used by lumbermen to get leverage on heavy logs, and roll them to a desired location.
Log Chute: A steep clearing cut through the woods and lined with poles where logs went shooting down the mountain side to be loaded onto vehicles at a 
lower altitude.
Highline: Pulleys were rigged to the treetops throughout the mountain. A cable (“highline”) was then threaded through the pulley and hooked to a steam engine to haul the felled trunks out of the forest.
Skid Road: You may think this title comes from skiers skidding down the mountain path – but it isn’t. In the early days of logging, before steam-powered vehicles were able to climb the mountainsides, teams of horses pulled the logs out of the forest on skid roads.
Blue Ox: Named for the legendary lumberjack (and logging hero) Paul Bunyan’s ox, who turned blue during the “winter of blue snow.”
Northwoods: The first trail cut in the Northeast Bowl, in 1967. Named for the beautiful strands of timber through which it runs. Northstar – just next to it – faces the actual North Star (“Polaris”) all year round.
Pando, CO: A Cooler Place than Most
One of the greatest advantages to reading Vail Valley Magazine are the engaging articles within it, like the one from a few weeks ago written by Shirley Welch. In the piece, “Before Camp Hale, Ice was a Cash Crop,” Welch sheds light on this corner of Colorado before the ski resorts of the 1960s came to take over the valley. The area of Pando, for example, became well known in the 1920s as the principal supplier of ice for the refrigerated cars along the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad (which began in 1882). Pando was in fact a locomotive transfer depot in the Valley and also served as a passenger railway station. It wasn’t long before Pando began to have a significant population to it, and its fortunate fate lay in the cold lakes just underneath the main ridge.
The Eagle Valley was formed during the glacial modifications of the past millennia. As the glaciers melted and retracted, much of the west end was filled with a muddy substance, resulting in a swampy area. This formed a ledge where rainwater lakes were naturally barricaded. These lakes would be of major importance in refrigerated transport of the early 1920s.
Produce from the Rocky Mountain’s valley floors and river beds needed to be sold at market in the bigger cities. The American Refrigerator Transit Company (ART) was formed, engineering railway cars that were leased to the Denver & Rio Grande. These cars were a work of ART: each one hand-constructed, built in a pine-pine
tongue and groove, and varnished to a high gloss. To enhance the insulation of these cars, the walls were packed with six feet of sawdust, and ice was loaded into the car from the top. Each car was equipped with a runoff drain to prevent flooding.
But it’s the ice that put Pando on the map. In the west end of the valley, a lake 7 feet deep was created by damming the Eagle River. Chains were placed into the water so that large chunks of ice could be pulled from the surface during the winter. Men with one-handed saws would roughly cut cubes of the ice and float it down the pond. The chains then would haul the ice out of the water and onto a finishing platform where the ice was cut into 2 feet square blocks. About 40 men were needed to cut, shape, load and finish the ice blocks, which resulted in a very prosperous business until the 1930s when the produce crops were infected by brown rot and the US military would soon begin making its arrangements to train troops in these mountains. As a consequence, the ice industry melted away to the war machine’s mighty blaze, which in turn gave birth to Vail and to ski tourism in the valley.
Online Presents
Again, I need to apologize for my disappearance from the online world. Every so often the offline world presents us with a few surprises, and some activities are put on hold while the fires are put out. I’d like to thank all of you who have continued to check for new posts here, regardless of the three-plus months that I have been missing in action. I am forever grateful for your support.
Within the next couple of weeks you will see a complete face-lift of the old website. This year is soon coming to a close, and with that I will be changing the appearance of ATL. My activities have remained the same and I will continue to bring you quality articles and videos. on the activities, food and culture discovered throughout my travels. Know my online presence will be more frequent, and my focus will be sharper.
Speaking of online presence, I wanted to bring to your attention some online presents you can get for your favorite cyclist or skier. These are just a few great links with spectacular offerings for your preferred athlete (or yourself):
BicycleGifts.com : These folks offer great little gifts from unique jewelry to vintage prints. I’m particularly fond of the “spokemon” bracelet – I’ve been wearing one for ages. Their gifts are classy and unique, and a number of them you can get for little cash.
Wheeltags : If you have a team with TT bikes, Wheeltags is a cool and interesting way to personalize your teams’ wheels. If you don’t have a team, personalize them anyway. They have stylish jerseys and they are giving out gift certificates so you can save even more cash during the holidays.
Road ID : Levi Leipheimer endorses the Road ID products, and is also on the Road ID team. A company primarily known for its medical ID bracelets, Road ID also makes lights and small wallets for running. But what’s really cool is how they have constructed the site to help emergency professionals assist with accidents on the road: using a smartphone, the medic can enter in a patient’s ID number and get all of their vital stats immediately. What gift could be better than that?
Sportube: Planning a week out in Vail or Steamboat? Airlines are charging a fortune for your bags – the least you need is to pay to get your skis on the plane. Sportube makes a variety of solid reinforced travel cases for skis and snowboards so you can ship your stuff. It’s what I did and I saved over $200 and a lot of backache.
Vintage Snow: These folks offer some of the more intriguing antique ski paraphernalia. From customizable wood signs to figurines to a 1939 Sun Valley ski lift chair, you will find something for every taste (and certainly every budget).
YakTrax: The unsung hero of the winter ski resort. It’s bad enough making sure no one runs into you on the hill, imagine finishing a great day of skiing, crossing the parking lot in your ski boots, and getting a mouthful of asphalt because you slipped on some black ice. YakTrax attaches to the bottom of your ski boot so you don’t bottom out at the bottom of the hill. A smart item to have in any pack.