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How do you do “Number 1″ when on the Two-Wheeler?
This is an argument that I’ve been considering addressing for sometime : when on the bicycle, how do you take care of business? Recently the Tour de France commentators have been calling rider b-room breaks, “nature breaks,” which – in my humble opinion – is too ridiculous for the race. In all of my riding I’ve never said to my friend, “Hey, I’m going to pull over and take a nature break.” I realize it’s television but there are so many more colorful expressions describing the act of “paying the water bill.” There is “seeing a man about a horse,” of course doing “number 1″ is popular, but my personal favorite will always be “changing the olive water” (loosely translated from the Italian Cambiare l’acqua alle olive). We don’t say this last one in English, but we should.
No matter how you do it, doing it in a bike kit poses great distress for many people. More so for women than men (for obvious reasons). Men have the opportunity to pull up a pant leg or stretch down their shorts to get at what their getting at. I’m a fan of bib-shorts, and I always use the “roll-back-a-leg” technique when I need to “take a pit stop.” Of course, the seams and threading in my bike shorts take a bit of tugging after a while. They begin to fray and split, but that’s all the more reason to buy a new kit after a few years.
The reason behind this post is my concern for the ladies. I have a number of female friends who are just getting into cycling and they don’t know whether to go with bib-shorts or waist shorts. My immediate reaction is to go with waist shorts, because it allows for easier biological access. But recently I’ve seen a number of women who ride in bib-shorts. Maybe I’m naive, but isn’t that uncomfortable?
Whichever short you wrap yourself in, I hope a few of the female readers will be able to shed some light on the arguments surrounding “spending a penny”
in (or rather, “out of”) bike shorts. Since my chromosomes have dictated differently, I am of little help to my fellow female cyclists. Yet apart from all the giggling and raised eyebrows this short post may have, it is crucial to realize just how important “refreshing the body” is. Not taking enough liquids in – or expelling them properly – can lead to a urinary tract infection, which could lead to a kidney infection and a whole bunch of other nasty business. Thus while on the bike, it’s as important to take in liquids as it is to get rid of them. So I hope the lady cyclists who are out there will share their wisdom for those who need a few ideas to help them enjoy a new and exciting sport. And always remember: no matter when nature calls, never take messages.
Living on the Edge: Life along the Côte d’Azur
There is something about the beauty of the Côte d’Azur that inspires more than a simple look in an easterly direction. Anyone who has walked along the crimson cliffs overlooking the emerald sea knows there is a magnetism about this ‘little’ part of the world that holds the viewer to deep meditation. It’s unlike visiting the Eiffel Tour: a man-made construction – in it’s own right a marvelous structure – yet far from the immensity that the farthest southern coast of France can offer. The Eiffel tower has a harmony that was planned by humans; the Emerald Coast has a harmony based on contrasting elements.
The red cliffs dive down into the azure sea, yet the trees grow sideways as they try, over the course of 
their lives, to battle against the Mediterranean winds. The land along the coast is flat, accommodating runners on the Esplanade des Anglais in Nice, and strollers and evening lovers on the coast in Cannes. But go inland no more than 5 kilometers and you have steep hills, protecting the villages of Grasse, St-Paul-de-Vence, and Vence. It’s no surprise that towards the end of the 19th century great impressionists like Cézanne, Renoir and Monet found inspiration in the movement of these stationary elements. Later in the mid 1900s, the surrealist sculptor and architect Chagall used these same contrasts to become one of the most influential figurative artists of the 20th century.
Murray and Lynn were equally inspired by the landscape. They spent a few days biking around some of Southern France’s most challenging – yet most beautiful – countryside. One of the most wonderful features of their vacation was the fact that they did as they saw fit, making their own choices. Whether it was a delicious meal in Nice’s historic center, or walking through the open market in Vence, they were able to see the countryside at their own speed.
Thanks goes out again to the subjects in the video: Murray and Lynn, I was warmed by your enthusiasm especially when the weather wasn’t cooperating. Your good spirits and laughter made this an excellent adventure in France. Next time I’m in Toronto, I’ll be sure to let you lead.
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Almond Milk: the New Protein Drink of Champions
Anytime we take on a new adventure, the mental stress can be overwhelming. In some cases, the idea of traveling to a foreign country for a week-long bicycle vacation can create more concern than the sense of relief it’s supposed to engage. If all of the unknowns were factored into the equation, and we were let loose to worry about them – the late planes, the lost luggage, the language barrier, the long hills, the physical effort – it’s surprising we’d ever get off the ground.
The beginning of Suzann’s holiday began in a similar fashion. She had never been on a bike vacation before traveling with Pomegranate Journeys to Sicily. In fact, she hadn’t been on a bike much prior to her time in Southern Italy, however she got off the ground and arrived ready for the adventure. She had all the right tools with her: an open-mind, a good spirit and a huge smile. In the following video you’ll hear her testimony about how the beginning of her adventure in Sicily was a bit of a challenge, but thanks to her perseverance, she had a wonderful time. In fact, the objective was no longer making it to the next hill, but looking for the next glass of latte di mandorla – or “almond milk.” As the trip unfolded, her cycling skills progressed and the fun rolled along with her wheels. At the beginning she considered herself the “least experienced” rider, but by the end of the trip she was clocking 100km days and 10% grades. For someone who had begun cycling just a few years ago, she quickly found herself at ease on the bike and rode like a seasoned cyclist.
And the trick is: don’t think about the bike as a challenge, but as a means to experience a “guilt-free” vacation.
But I’ll let the video explain that.
I’d like to thank Suzann for her patience with my filming and my constant questioning. I’d especially like to thank her for her open and sincere responses and her continuous laughter and good humor. Finally I’d like to thank her for her willingness to be broadcast to over 1,000 people (maybe more?) over the web.
Thanks Suzann, keep biking and we’ll see you again very soon. And the next round of latte di mandorla is on me. – Gabe
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Bike Racing and EPO: Every Professional’s Obsession
Erythropoietin (commonly known as EPO) is a performance enhancing drug that controls red blood cell production. First discovered in 1906 by a French professor of medicine in Paris, it was suspected in cycling throughout the ’80s and ’90s, but no test had been invented to check for the drug in vivo until the year 2000. Recently, Floyd Landis admitted to using performance enhancing drugs (PEDs), and I wrote these lines in reaction to his statement, but never posted it until now. I have no official documentation suggesting whether or not any cyclist uses doping agents to enhance their performance. The opinions here are my own, made watching these events unfold over time (having followed professional cycling for a long time, having witnessed the major races first-hand, and by knowing a number of semi-professional racers).
Recalling Landis’s 2006 Tour de France win, by the end of stage 16, Landis not only lost the yellow jersey to Pereiro and the stage to
Rasmussen, but was out of the top ten in the General Classification. The next day, he won stage 17, tackling the Col des Saisies, Col des Aravis, Col de la Colombière and the Col de Joux-Plane to finish third in the GC. A few days later, he snatched the yellow jersey, and won the Tour. During that stage 17 performance, he seemed like another man; in fact he seemed almost super-human. It is at these moments of extreme comeback (and no pain) that I raise my eyebrows. If it is looks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, it’s probably a duck (thanks to Marc for that one). Apparently someone in the organization was raising eyebrows as well while watching the race. They tested Landis as a protocol on the second to last stage. By that time he was back in yellow, and victory started slipping away.
Now that Floyd’s career (and his reputation) is in the toilet, he has admitted to using drugs. But he’s also indicted Hincapie, Leipheimer, and Lance Armstrong. Since he is going down, he’s decided to bring the house down with him, which is poor form on Floyd’s part and that’s how CNN feels about it as well. A desperate man’s move in a desperate time in his career.
I am a cynical cyclist, and some of you know my opinions concerning Armstrong and PEDs. Again, I have no proof that any cyclist is doping, but I am of the firm belief that most of the top athletes in competitive sports are doing it. I personally know a few semi-professional bike racers who are either on drugs or have been offered them to improve their performance. Basso, Heras, Beloki, Mayo, Rasmussen, Sella and Hamilton are just a few who have had their past marred by doping allegations of varying degrees (some worse than others).
But not Lance.
This new scandal has given me a new appreciation of “Le Texan” (as the French call him). If he isn’t taking drugs, then he’s the most amazing bike racer that ever lived. With a VO2 max off the charts and a larger lung capacity then the normal human being, it’s no surprise he’s such an incredible athlete (notice I left out his battle with cancer – point of controversy but remarkable none the less).
If he is taking drugs, then he’s still the most amazing bike racer that ever lived. He is the “Teflon Don” of the cycling world (Teflon Armstrong). How much controversy has he been the focus of over the past ten years? How many bullets has he dodged? How many blood tests has he taken and passed? How many press conferences and public statements has he given before, during and after the race? How many friends in high (and sometimes low) places have given him a hand? If he has used PEDs, then Lance has won the race both on and off the bike better than any other cyclist of his time. And as a result, he deserves to win the Tour de France (which, by the way, is the only race he seriously applies himself to winning every year).
Regardless of who gets nabbed and who avoids the nabbers, I will continue to watch the race from the hillsides and from my favorite bar. Incidentally, the French Bistos not only have wide-screen televisions, but also the best tasting EPO: Eau, Pastis, Olives.
Purgatory and Greenline Velo: the Path to Illumination
Purgatory is not so much a place as a process. Purgatory’s texture was sculpted by one of the most famous Italian poets, Dante, working off the ideology of the founders of the early Christian church. It is the second kingdom where the pilgrim wonders and the first where the human spirit has “hope” in reaching heavenly enlightenment: quel secondo regno/dove l’umano spirito si purga/e di salire al ciel diventa regno (Chiavacci Leonardi, 10). This literary ladder between heaven and hell is a mirror-image of the latter: where hell is a pit (easily “falling into sin”), purgatory is a mountain, where the sweat and physical efforts of the penitent pay off in attaining an entrance to paradise. Yet, the pilgrim’s journey through Purgatory is not solitaire: Beatrice assumes the role of guide, leading the pilgrim along the rough and burdensome cliff faces to the heavenly kingdom.
Similarly, the cyclists from Greenline Velo are on their way to redemption. A young bike team from Boston, they are facing a great challenge: organizing a new, NEBRA ranking bicycle race. They are slowly learning the necessary steps in organizing such a large event: paying the police, having the proper emergency services in place, keeping the areas clean, finding sponsoring, and more. But like our pilgrim, the going will get easier the further they climb up the mountain. The more they make their plight known, the more prayers will help them and the easier their climb will be. Of course – like our voyageur in the Italian classic – they need a helping hand, or they won’t make it up the mountain. They are missing funding to get them closer to a heavenly illumination.
Honestly. This is not literary invention.
It is no coincidence that the cyclists from Greenline Velo are organizing a bicycle race whose proceeds support an environmental cause. The National Grid finances the installation of solar panels on the Sutton Public Schools and an awareness of energy consumption with its students. Thus, any assistance they receive goes directly to finance the switch from conventional to alternative energy. Plus, it helps the riders from the club establish themselves as a viable team, and places the race on the map as one of Massachusetts’ qualifying circuit races. Anyone interested in information or donating to the project should email Kyle Butler at connection.
What’s the name of the race? The Purgatory Road Race, of course.
Purgatory Chasm in Sutton is thought to have been formed from a sudden glacial water break. The race is in part criterium, yet anyone who lives in the area and has ridden in bike races before should test their skills on the circuit. The race is June 19th, 2010, and even if you don’t bike, I suggest you take the time to watch the racers (some international) make Massachusetts cycling history. Hopefully it will find it’s place in Massachuetts’ cycling along with the Lonjo Classic and the George Street Bike Challenge for Major Taylor as one of the state’s legendary races (and if you haven’t heard about Major Taylor, I suggest you read up on him here). As we watch the pilgrim make his way up the mountain to heavenly enlightenment, we have the opportunity to witness the young riders at Greenline Velo make their way through the chasm, brightening the Sutton Schools with solar panels. So give them a hand, and help them along the road to alternative illumination.
Andiamo in Kuota: A new discovery in the Dolomites
Cycling in the Dolomites is an experience comparable to beholding the handiwork of the divine. Harsh rock and cliff faces in this part of northeastern Italy are harmoniously married to lush emerald fields and evergreen forests. Anyone who has participated in the Maratona dles Dolomites (The Dolomite Marathon) knows how stunning the panorama can be, especially when biking through these glorious passes, roads closed, with other cyclists. Nine thousand other cyclists, according to the statistics from the official Maratona dles Dolomites website. In 2008, there was again the same number. Needless to say, this is one of the most popular of the great Italian Granfondo 
(an “endurance” or “long distance” cycling event, loosely translated). In fact, the organizers of the Maratona dles Dolomites need to cap the number of participants every year. The more people who sign up, the more difficult it is to organize, and the more dangerous the event becomes. If they were to get 10,000 or more on these narrow roads, the start would be more than chaos: it would be hell.
Setting the opening scene, many of the participants have never competed in a “race” of this caliber (90% of cyclists are there to safely finish the course), and the starting line is the most daunting part. Beginning at La Villa in Alta Badia, there are three general routes one can ride: the short 55 km, the medium 106 km and the long 138 km options. Some look at the 138km and think it’s easy, yet forget to consider the elevation gain is around 4190 m (yes, meters – for feet, multiply by three). In addition, the three courses are all interlinked in some way – especially the short, a loop all 
cyclists must do no matter what option they choose. Around 7:00 am, everyone starts. Everyone. The elbow-to-elbow riding from La Villa (flat) is invigorating, but when ascending Campolungo, that’s where technique comes into play. Speed is dictated by the allure of the surrounding cyclists, pinched between the Sunday stroller ahead and the weekend whizzer behind – while climbing uphill. It’s a rather precarious situation and every year I have participated, there has been an accident coming down from Passo Sella, in the exact same spot. No misunderstanding, it’s a great race and one I’ve done four times. Unfortunately it’s the number of people that make – and break – all the fun.
Enter Kuota. I have already written a blog post on Kuota’s commitment to cycling in their local community through the Granfondo Fabio Casartelli here. Kuota saw what was happening at the Maratona dles Dolomites and decided 
to join with others to do something about it. They are, in part, sponsoring another race in the Dolomites. The Gröden Bike Marathon takes place in the Val Gardena, crossing other famous peaks such as Fedaia and Pordoi. Their event has a two-fold advantage: one, the racers get to see a completely different side of these majestic mountains, and two, since this is the race’s first year, not many cyclists know about it, thus numbers will be low. Of course, like all Granfondo, there is an entry fee. However, if you show up with your Kuota bicycle, you don’t pay anything – the registration is free. It is a UDACE certified, pro/amateur race, complete with all the other extras expected at these memorable events: gifts and awards, pasta lunches and good people who are there just to have a fun time. If you’re interested in the event itself go to the Gröden Marathon site (you may need Google Translate since the site is in Italian and German). If you’re interested in the Kuota bike line check out their website here. Again, Kuota sees cycling – and the mountains – in a different light, from a different valley. Consequently, thanks to the Gröden Bike Marathon, cyclists can now appreciate this divine art from more than just one perspective.
Flemish Fun
Few people have heard of the Tour of Flanders. Certainly, the Tour de France and the Giro d’Italia are older and more popular than this spin through Belgium. Yet there is something about these “minor” bike races (and by minor I mean less popular, not less important) that, in my opinion, makes them as exciting to watch as the others. Maybe even more so.
I have had the privilege of witnessing first-hand a number of the great races. But once, I had the honor of competing in the amateur circuit through the Flemish Ardennes. It was an experience of a lifetime. The countryside is some of the most picturesque in Belgium, riding along the silky-soft asphalted roads on the flattest ground imaginable. Until you’re faced with Molenburg – the second of many uphill, cobblestone stretches – lasting about a half kilometer at an average 5% grade. Then it’s Paterburg: a 300m cobbled climb at an average 12.9%. Then the infamous Koppenburg: 600m of cobbled slope at an average of 11.6%. The entire course itself covers approximately 250km with 17 of climbs like these – some cobbled, some not – at various intervals. But the trick isn’t so much knowing when to anticipate the hill, as it is a game of avoiding the ruts. Certainly these cobblestone stre
ets have “grown apart” over the years and it’s easy to let the wheels steer you into catastrophe. Derailleurs, chains, pedals and all kinds of debris are literally ripped off the bicycles by the mere strength of the climbing cyclist, and scattered along the base of every hill. These climbs eat bicycles. Thus the only solution through the pounding and vibrations is to keep hands firm, feet churning, and asses down. Missing any of these means walking along the side of the hill. Which calls into mind the next element of this adventure: space.
Not only are ri
ding the fat cobblestones a challenge uphill, but there’s also the challenge of jockeying for position. On the asphalted flat bits the road is smooth, wide and speeds increase. Mere meters before the beginning of Kapelmur, for example, the road narrows considerably. As it should: all of these cobbled sections echo a time when horse drawn carriages ruled the roadways. There was no need to make the avenue any wider than needed. So when approaching the base, there is a mad scramble to stay on the bike as a group of cyclists, possibly ten or twelve wide, narrows to three. Speeds slow down instantly to a standstill, and most riders dismount since the grade is too difficult to attack from a stopped position. And it is here rivers of cyclists on foot flow uphill, walking their bikes along both sides of the cobblestone road – making the going even more narrow for those able to stay in the saddle.
Add to this mix the freezing cold, pouring rain, harsh winds and globs of mud and sand that pool at the base of each steep climb, and the adventure only turns more epic. Legendary, actually. The event is usually the 14th Sunday in the year - around the beginning of April – and the weather patterns in northern Europe are anything but trustworthy. Even the adverse weather adds to the uniqueness of the event: a one-day race that lasts a lifetime.
New “Kuotes” from Kuota
For some of you, bicycles may be no more than a child’s pastime. Others may find them annoying velocipedes hogging the side of the road (which was made for cars, right?). Most cities in North America have been developed around the automobile: the long highways, the absence of bike paths in most urban centers and the animosity towards cyclists in general, are just a few clues. In Europe, however, the bicycle has been a means of transportation for some commoners well before the horse and carriage. It has played a significant role in both World Wars, in unifying countries, and in expanding economies. It is still used today by European postal workers, bakers, carpenters, priests, fisherman and thousands of adolescents. A bicycle’s attributes are endless.
The fellows at Kuota also have endless attributes. They are bicycle manufactures, pioneers in Italian design, and supporters of local charities all at the same time.
Kuota has humble beginnings as a bicycle fork company, specializing in steel and aluminum forks. They equipped most bicycle frames in the ’80s and ’90s with high-quality metal forks. As carbon fiber became a more popular material, they were the first company to specialize in carbon bicycle forks and again supplied them to all of the major bicycle brands. As Kuota began to watch bicycle frames switch from metal to carbon fiber in the ’90s, they began producing full carbon fiber frames. In 2001, Kuota bicycles (from the Italian “quota” – meaning “attaining new heights”) was born. Today, they supply the bikes for the professional racing team AG2R and in 2008 and 2009 they sponsored Agritubel. They’ve raced under Christophe Moreau and Cyril Dessel in the great bicycle races, rolled to victory with Norman Stadler’s Ironman conquests, and they are getting increased recognition and praise from the biking community in a number of product reviews such as this one from Bike Radar. It is for Kuota’s excellent craftsmanship, design and accomplishments that Pomegranate Journeys has decided to equip each of its European departures with Kuota’s Carbon-framed bicycles.
Much of Kuota’s recognition comes from the innovative design of these bicycles. They were the first to design the aerodynamic oversized carbon fiber tubing. As a result, most vibrations and wobbling is eliminated at high speeds. As Bike Radar points out in the above review of the KOM, the fork is constructed out of oversized tubes, and thus the front is exceptionally sturdy and solid in the turns. The boys in the Kuota engineering studio create each year’s model with an Italian designer’s eye. Rather than read the geometry sketches, they prefer to have the first prototype on hand to “see” what the final product looks like. Although they are interested in functionality, it is the beauty of the final product that they are most focused on. If they are not pleased with the final design, they start all over. Needless to say, Kuota bikes are chic, Italian design married to stylish efficiency.
But Kuota doesn’t stop at simply making a better bike, they also aim to make a better cyclist. They sponsor the Fabio Casartelli Medio Fondo (an amateur bike race) in honor of the late cyclist (and Lance’s domestique under Motorolla). Casartelli crashed in the 1995 Tour de France on the descent from the Col d’Aspet. It was because of that accident that the UCI began to make helmets obligatory in the pro races. All proceeds from this Medio Fondo go to fund bicycle safety programs in local schools through the Fabio Casartelli Foundation: how to ride in a line, how to keep to the side of the road, and especially how to properly wear a helmet. Kuota makes an impressive product, but they are also actively involved in bettering cycling for their local communities. By teaching the young proper cycling techniques, these young riders will have more concern for other vehicles on the road and incorporate safety into every ride. Then these kids will eventually grow into adults. Adults who will eventually get behind the wheel of a car and have a lot more respect for the kids – or anyone – cycling along the side of the road.
Ragusa is What’s Lovely about Sicily
People give you strange looks when you tell them, “I’m going to Sicily.” A few years ago, whenever I’d talk about Sicily, people thought it synonymous with the Bronx, downtown LA or Oakland. They had images of a certain Mario Puzo novel, of gun-toting hooligans and wise-guys, of deals made in dark cafes over cigarette smoke and five o’clock shadow. What’s interesting is that these scenes don’t happen in Sicily – they happen all over Italy. In fact, they happen all over the world. To think that Hollywood could have such an effect over people’s judgment either tells us something great about the film industry or something completely terrible about the cinema-going public.
Enter Ragusa to shatter this gangster image. Ragusa belongs to the UNESCO World Heritage sites (as do seven other cities in the Val di Noto alone), primarily for its 18 Baroque monuments. It is also an amazing cultural and culinary center in southeast Sicily. Ragusa was leveled by the great earthquake of 1693, which destroyed most of its infrastructure and buildings. The Spanish Crown reconstructed the village with elaborate golden stonework and magnificent cathedrals to the point where, today, the city is home to some of the most beautiful examples of Baroque architecture in the world.The Catedrale S. Giorgio, the Palazzo della Cancelleria and the Chiesa del Purgatorio are just some of the examples that can be seen while walking the infinite alleyways and footpaths of Ragusa Ibla. And this is were the city’s beauty lies to the average visitor: it is all within walking distance. Pomegranate Journeys has placed Ragusa on its Sicilian bike itinerary as it is one stop that cannot be forgotten. But even if you don’t like bikes, Ragusa has stairs that rival the Cinque Terre. It hosts an unending labyrinth of narrow passageways and promenades that take you to some of the hidden gems of Spanish Baroque architecture hidden away from the main piazzas. Plus the people are incredibly friendly and polite, exceptionally gracious and accommodating (no horse’s head under the sheets or fish wrapped in newspaper). You could stay in the more modern Ragusa Superiore in a lovely hotel, but there are tons of places to stay in Ibla as well. I’d recommend staying at one of the numerous private B&Bs that are hidden within the ancient city. Le Sirene B&B is a classy, private, establishment right in the middle of Ibla, and 
the owner is a delight. She’s a local who will set up breakfast, tell you everything there is to know about the town and even give you insight into the personal history behind the B&B itself (it has a fabulous story). From Le Sirene, you’re not even five minutes away from all the beautiful sites, and the stay is not at all expensive. It is the perfect way to escape from the stresses of daily life and enjoy one of the most enchanting cities on earth.
An Alpine Guide for Your Pocket: Cycling in the French Alps
Its nice to hav
e friends that do cool things. But its also nice to have cool friends. Paul Henderson is one of those and his book, Cycling in the French Alps (Cicerone), is as much a testament to his extraordinary life style as it is an incredible compilation of magnificent biking routes. The routes are as varied as the roads themselves, taking you through the Savoie, Haute-Savoie, Drôme and Ventoux regions of France. Just reading the itineraries makes me breathe hard. Paul is from Durham, England (so its [pawl] not [pol]) yet has been living in Savoie, France for a long time. Over this period Paul has skied, climbed and biked just about every nook and cranny in Southeast France, most of Provence, and a good part of Italy, Corsica, Australia and other continents. His personal list of accomplishments is endless but thankfully just the French Alpine cycling routes are compiled in one book: a must for anyone who is looking to spend a week, a month or a summer biking in the Alps.
I appreciate how Paul is able to touch upon the “dreams” as well as “misconceptions” of cycling in the Alps. These are important factors that most of my guests seem to forget at times:
For most cyclists the French Alps conjure up images of the great champions of the Tour de France…Of course, mountains do not have to be snow-capped giants to provide worthwhile cycling. Many lower-areas are criss-crossed by quiet roads that meander through varied landscapes of open pastures, dark forests, deep gorges and unspoilt villages. The scenery is just as beautiful as in the high mountains…When cycling in the mountains, the amount of vertical height gain is a much better indication of the difficulty of a route than the distance covered. The circuits were planned with this in mind…
Personally having ridden most of Paul’s routes, I can attest that the views from these “minor” mountains are just as beautiful as the better-known giants. What’s even better is you’ll never find the crowds around the Col de Granier that you would find around Galibier, which makes the riding eve
n sweeter. The book is brimming with all kinds of useful information I’d only expect from Paul Henderson: from hints on taking bikes on the trains to lodging suggestions to useful websites and spectacular photography to help you visualize the itinerary (which could sometimes bring you to some rather remote locations). The itineraries themselves are highly detailed with route directions, elevation maps, hints on getting to/coming from, when to go and climate stats, paper map suggestions, as well as where to find water, campsites, hotels, banks, bikeshops, and cafés. He’s even included useful French phrases (since the author is also a full-time translator I wouldn’t expect anything less). Having done a number of Randonnée Ski Tours with Paul, I can attest to his level of detail and dedication in the mountains. The same applies to this guide: a fundamental tool for biking legendary circuits in the French Alps.