Archive for August 2010
Quittin’ Tarentaise: A Maker of Vacations goes on Vacation
Dear Faithful Reader:
My most heart-felt apologies for having left you with no news for well over two weeks. I assure you that during this period I have not been “on vacation” but designing vacations: namely Puglia, the Cinque Terre, Tarbes and Spain for Pomegranate Journey’s 2011 season, among other destinations. And since my business is the vacations of others, I find it difficult to be on vacation without working or researching a special location. And I have found a gem in the Tarentaise.
The Tarentaise is the valley of the upper Isère river in the French Alps. After the publication of our article in the 
Dauphine Libéré, the hosts at Chalet Merlot and Chalet Pecchio asked me if I’d like to come see their residences in this valley. I accepted the invitation willingly, and was awed by the natural beauty of the mountains, the construction of the Chalets and the gracefulness of the hosts, Nick and Margret.
The Tarentaise is the natural environment for the Tarine cows (a highly preserved breed in the French Alps) and is also a destination for skiers in the wintertime, with the popular resorts of Tignes and Val d’Isère (among others) along the upper part of the valley (Haute Tarentaise). Yet, the summer calls for mountain biking paths, hiking trails and white river rafting. The location makes for an exceptional holiday when skiing in the winter (there are approximately five resorts within 20 minutes of the Chalet), or 
cycling in the summer. There are routes taking the advanced biker (or advanced at heart) over the Col d’Iseran, Col du Petit San Bernard, and the Cormet de Roseland, to name a few. The chalet has a traditionally tasteful decor, fitting it in perfectly to its Alpine surroundings. When thinking of chalets in the French Alps, snowy peaks and warm fiery images flicker to mind. And no doubt, the glaciers were still white in August, and there was enough chill in the air that even on a few summer nights, a warm fire was a warm welcome.
However, there is nothing that compares to the warmth of the staff during the seasons. Whether summer or winter, Nick and Margret are exceptional hosts offering pick-ups from the train station, fresh baked banana bread for an 
afternoon snack, and a cool glass of Chignin Bergeron at the evening aperitif. Nick was generous enough to barbecue for the group on the last night of my stay. Grilled pork, chilled rosé, engaging conversation, all made for an excellent stay.
My sincere thanks to the staff and friends of Chalet Merlot and Chalet Pecchio. You all made my stay an enjoyable weekend. Again, special thanks to Nick and Margret for their unparalleled hospitality, to the point where it made leaving the Tarentaise a sad moment for this author. Yet, I look forward to seeing you all again with bikes and skis.
Movie Mondays: Eating at ‘My Friends’ in Sicily
No. There is no grammatical error in the title of this post. That is what Amici Miei means in Italian, and in this restaurant tucked away behind the stone walls in Piazza Armerina, that is exactly the kind of reception you will receive: the comforting greeting of friends. Upon walking into the restaurant, you are not a customer, but a long-lost acquaintance, returning to find good friends in a familiar place.
The three key players at Amici Miei have succeeded in conducting culinary orchestral masterpieces. Owners Andrea and Sonia have created a wonderful dinning experience that not only showcases Sicilian cuisine, but also the specialties around the Enna province. Most people salivate over seafood platters and other marine specialties when they think of Sicily’s kitchen. But they are missing the local honey and aged ricotta cheese, the cavatti and pistachio, the roasted lamb and potatoes, and the exquisite semifreddo di torroncino: a cool nougat covered with rich dark chocolate. Simone – head chef and fundamental to the final product – creates the perfect medleys of local products, fashioning them into symphonies that are music to the mouth.
Andrea, Sonia and Simone have also created an atmosphere as delicious as their menu. At Amici Miei, you are with friends. There are no stuffy shirts, no fancy dress, no lead crystal chandeliers. What you find are warm 100-year-old limestone walls, friendly staff and that comforting Sicilian hospitality that I can never get enough of. At Amici Miei, the ambiance is jovial and upbeat so the patrons can enjoy what is honestly a good time with good friends and good food.
Thanks to the folks at Amici Miei for letting me film their beautiful establishment. Thanks again to Peter and Susan for letting me use their sound bites. And thanks especially to a little-known musician from Canada (“Steely Dee”) for the background music. I hope you enjoy the video.
Video is here since YouTube has decided not to cooperate with me this afternoon.
Laying down the Loire
The Loire has been described as “the garden of France:” a velvety-green countryside speckled with an array of eye-catching castles. From up above, these castles would probably assume the allure of elaborate gazebos and elite garden sheds. Up close, they are an incredible example of the wealth and prosperity that reigned in France during the 14th and 15th centuries.
But, you don’t have to be a king to vacation in the valley. Thanks to the numerous retired couples in the area, the chambres d’hôtes are a relatively cheap and romantic way to lay your head down in the evenings. These chambres are typically old 18th and 19th century farmhouses renovated and developed by couples who have the time to dedicate to them. They are a type of romantic B&B with modest prices, and there is a great network of them here. The chambres are well kept and don’t have the cold “business” atmosphere found in typical hotels. They are, generally, a stay in someone else’s home, complete with cotton comforters, garden
tulips on the table, and fresh bread and confiture at breakfast. The highlight of it all, however, is the conversation: the owners have plenty of stories about past guests, the history of the farmhouse or unique itinerary ideas that you can’t find in any guidebook.
Les Salamandres, for example, is a sleepy farmhouse in Montlivaud – a tiny village just 15 kms away from Blois, along the Loire river. Martine and Jean-Claude make excellent hosts, and Martine’s morning brioche is just as flavorful as Jean-Claude’s comical 
spirit. Montlivaud was a stop for pilgrims along the way to Compostelle ever since the Middle Ages. The 12th century church in the middle of the village is the only structure disturbing the peace for the early hours matins and the evening vespers. No wonder why Pomegranate Journeys has chosen this quaint yet characteristic village as the beginning of their Loire Valley bike tour. It is close to Blois for a delicious meal, yet the evenings are cool and quiet to rest the legs and the mind.
No matter what your draw, give in to the Loire.
Movie Mondays: The Villa Roseraie
Provence is soft and warm, yet cool and breezy; a mix of sun and shade. It’s the smell of the hay fields and the perfume of anisette Forcalquier Pastis in the evenings. It’s the sound of cicadas at midday, of children out of school, of the Festival de la Musique on the 15th of June, and of the Mistral: at times soft and gentle whispering through plane tree boulevards, other times harsh, wailing banshee-like through the ruins of medieval towns.
Provence has been well known for centuries as the artistic inspiration for masters such as Van Gogh and Matisse. But Munch, Monet, Picasso, Cezanne, and Renoir also found a stroke of genius in this rich and sensuous region of Southern France. If you have never been, go. And if you go, stay in Vence at the Villa Roseraie: a charming inn which delivers the veritable Provence through the decor of its rooms, the abundance of its fare, and the warmth of its hosts.
Max and Laurence purchased the Villa Roseraie five years ago when it was practically in ruin. Through their hard work and dedication to preserving the look and feel of this inspirational region, Max and Laurence have managed to turn this late 19th century aristocratic villa into one of the most extraordinary hotels in the Var. The fresh pain au raisin each morning, accompanied by warm café in the tuliped gardens by the pool, is a memorable way to begin the journée. The rooms are cozy and comforting, warm and inviting. A stay at the Villa Roseraie is more a stay with friends in the countryside than a night in a hotel. And I assure you, at the end of your séjour, Max and Laurence will become your friends, and they’ll look forward to your return.
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